This iconic brand of American hard-wearing overalls and denim workwear was so-named for a massive construction project: a big dam. This label was launched by Irwin-Phillips Co., a dry goods and department store situated in the town of Keokuk, Iowa which first opened in 1856.

— THIS BRAND IS NO LONGER IN PRODUCTION —

ABOUT

Keokuk had become an important trading post, located where the Mississippi and Des Moines Rivers meet. It had become an epicentre for the fur trade and was a key staging post for the Mormon Trail. Famously, it was home to Mark Twain’s brother, Orion Clemens.

Irwin-Phillips Co. (founded as Kramer & Irwin Notions & Dry Goods) was established by a trio from Ohio who had relocated to Keokuk to establish a provisions business to cater to the trading outpost. By 1867, Stephen Irwin had bought out his partners to become the S. Irwin Company. Cyrus Phillips and Iram Sawyer joined the firm in 1871 and the company became known thereafter as Irwin-Phillips Co. The expansion of the partnership also marked the firm’s foray into the manufacture of apparel and related goods. A new factory was built in 1887 to accommodate this grown component of their business. The firm also opened a New York City address to cater to a growing customer base.

Irwin-Phillips produced a range of apparel to cater to the burgeoning industry in the area, mostly under their Indian Head brand. In 1913, construction began on Lock and Dam No. 19 and Keokuk was about to become a hub of development activity. In 1923, the company launched its Big Dam brand (effectively a rebranding of Indian Head apparel), to cater to the engineers and labourers working on the project. The brand name reflected a common thread amongst workwear brands of the time, using the prefix “Big” to sell their product.

The United States Patent Office filing of 1924 indicates that Irwin-Phillips intended to use the label on a wide range of apparel including: “…WORK COATS, PANTS, OVERALLS, ONE-PIECE SUITS, WORK ADN NEGLIGEE SHIRTS, AND CHILDREN’S OVERALLS, JUMPERS, PANTS, WORK AND NEGLIGEE SHIRTS, TEXTILE UNDERWEAR FOR MEN AND WOMEN, AND ONE, TWO AND THREE PIECE SUITS OF WASH FABRICS FOR CHILDREN…“.

Irwin-Phillips also produced Tom Boy Hosiery. The Big Dam brand later expanded into westernwear with their Rodeo Pants line. The firm ceased garment manufacturing in the 1960s and, eventually, Irwin-Phillips closed down in 1984. Their house labels are no longer in production. The iconic department store building was, somewhat fittingly, demolished to make way for another major construction project: the Keokuk-Hamilton Bridge.

Big Dam and Indian Head apparel are highly sought after by American and Japanese collectors with deadstock pieces fetching quite a premium. The Indian Head brand is particularly rare. These clothes are rarely used as true workwear today, given their limited availability, however they were once held in high esteem as a go-to maker for rugged, durable gear. Occasionally, you’ll find Big Dam pieces on online auction and retail sites (ebay.com and etsy.com tend to be the best options, if you would like to use our affiliate links provided), or by visiting your local thrift stores.

If you know more about the history of this brand that you would like to share with us, why not drop us a comment below. Or if you’re a fan of the Big Dam brand, or even have some pieces in need of a new home, feel free to engage our readers too!

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